(04-09-2013, 12:34 PM)sindroms Wrote: Not everyone has a small dick, Sterlin.
Keep in mind one minor detail, Sterlin. The Scion FR-S / Subaru BRZ only has a 2.0 liter engine in it - that puts out 200 hp. The Subaru Forester XT has a 2.0 liter that puts out 250 hp, with 258 pound-feet of torque between 2,000 and 4,800 RPM.
(11-21-2013, 12:53 PM)Jihadjoe Wrote: Oh god... The end of days... Agmen agreed with me.
(04-09-2013, 12:34 PM)sindroms Wrote: Not everyone has a small dick, Sterlin.
Keep in mind one minor detail, Sterlin. The Scion FR-S / Subaru BRZ only has a 2.0 liter engine in it - that puts out 200 hp. The Subaru Forester XT has a 2.0 liter that puts out 250 hp, with 258 pound-feet of torque between 2,000 and 4,800 RPM.
More importantly, the Honda S2000 also has a 2 litre engine, is cheaper than the BRZ, and puts out 247HP.
Also, for anyone bagging on a 1.6L, the smaller bore/stroke means you can rev the engine harder to get the power you need. Funnily enough, another Pulsar, with a SR16VE (N1) puts almost any other naturally aspirated FWD hatchback to shame at 200HP. (And yes, it absolutely eats Honda's B18 and B16 engines for breakfast.)
woah, its a pulsar? this is the 2litre twin turbo thing that looks like a short almera?
is it the 4wd version? my brother had one, and scared me stupid when he drove it. that thing has hideous amounts of grip.
(04-09-2013, 09:18 AM)Mickk Wrote: *the sound of digging is heard.
Well, better to dig up and old thread than start a new one on the same subject.
So, here is a little update on the car.
We got hold of a second hand motor, finally.
It's a 1.6 liter as mentioned previously.
Both motors look identical with the manifolds removed.
Note I said 'look'?
The intake ports are different, so the Father is putting the 1.8 liter heads on the 1.6 block.
It's easier than it sounds, as the heads for the two motors are identical in every way, except that the intake ports are different.
The head has bolted straight on, no problems at all and external items bolted on.
I reckon a few more days and I'll be helping fit the motor back in the car.
I have a strange feeling that it might not even need to be tuned beyond getting the timing on the motor sorted properly.
i think i have seen a problem.
the 1.6 block with 1.8 head. the cylinder bores are larger on the 1.8, and so the recesses in the head are different sizes? maybe? did you measure the diameter of the bores on the inside of the head?
idk, but if the head is larger than the cylinder bores, will that not result in head gasket failure every 500 miles?
(04-09-2013, 04:25 PM)Coin Wrote: woah, its a pulsar? this is the 2litre twin turbo thing that looks like a short almera?
is it the 4wd version? my brother had one, and scared me stupid when he drove it. that thing has hideous amounts of grip.
That is the N14 Pulsar GTI-R that you refer to, and that is a turbocharged engine, not naturally aspirated, which makes power discussions pointless. I think it is nicknamed the Baby Godzilla, after the Skyline GT-R, but that's another issue.
It does not have Attessa-ETS, only Attessa 4WD, so it can't redirect torque to wheels different and as I recall from driving one, it's very nose heavy and has a tendency to understeer on the limit of grip.
It's only a single turbo SR20DET engine, by the way. Twin turbo-ing a four cylinder wouldn't be the best use of it's power, and a waste of money. It's incredible power difference, which makes it probably king in terms of SR20DET engines to modify, is the fact that it has individual throttle bodies standard from factory.
The Pulsar I refer to is FWD and NA, and fair comparisons should by FWD NA cars. (Although, it's over 10 years old, and puts out as much power as the current Subaru BRZ, which is laughable really.)
(04-09-2013, 09:18 AM)Mickk Wrote: *the sound of digging is heard.
Well, better to dig up and old thread than start a new one on the same subject.
So, here is a little update on the car.
We got hold of a second hand motor, finally.
It's a 1.6 liter as mentioned previously.
Both motors look identical with the manifolds removed.
Note I said 'look'?
The intake ports are different, so the Father is putting the 1.8 liter heads on the 1.6 block.
It's easier than it sounds, as the heads for the two motors are identical in every way, except that the intake ports are different.
The head has bolted straight on, no problems at all and external items bolted on.
I reckon a few more days and I'll be helping fit the motor back in the car.
I have a strange feeling that it might not even need to be tuned beyond getting the timing on the motor sorted properly.
i think i have seen a problem.
the 1.6 block with 1.8 head. the cylinder bores are larger on the 1.8, and so the recesses in the head are different sizes? maybe? did you measure the diameter of the bores on the inside of the head?
idk, but if the head is larger than the cylinder bores, will that not result in head gasket failure every 500 miles?
He mentioned the bore is the same, it just has a shorter stoke then the 1.8. So basicily the crankshaft is a little smaller, and rotates faster for more RPMs,and usually more torq. Pistons/bore should be the same, piston rods will be shorter, but that will all be in new engine, so no issues.
Only issue may be how the bolt patterns are for the fuel injectors to bolt on properly. So company's like to throw in a diff bolt pattern, or diff size bolts on diff engines just to screw with you.
To answer as many people as possible, serious people first;
@Noobl3t, Nope it's the 18LE motor and the 16LE and the Father says it looks like the motors were made in Australia, as they have 'GM' stamps on the various major parts of the motor.
@Coin, no, it's the 1990 Pulsar Q, front wheel drive, 4 wheel disc brakes, multipoint fuel injection, pretty advanced for a small car of it's time.
I am wondering if the difference in size between the had recesses and the cylinder bores will be a problem, but I don't think it will.
As a matter of fact, that is one of of about 3 differences in the motors. The cylinder bores are different by 4mm.
@ryoken, the bore is smaller on the 1.6 liter by 4 mm. The other two differences we know about is that the intake manifold setup is different, enough so that the manifold from one motor can't be used on the other despite being able to fit on the studs like they belong there on either motor and the fact that while one is your basic carby setup, the other is multi-point fuel injection.
Apart from that, they are exactly the same mechanically.
@the others who posted (except Agmen), please take your silliness elsewhere.
While I normally enjoy a bit of craziness, let's try to keep it to a minimum in this thread, even if it is FLOOD.
(04-10-2013, 03:51 AM)Mickk Wrote: @Noobl3t, Nope it's the 18LE motor and the 16LE and the Father says it looks like the motors were made in Australia, as they have 'GM' stamps on the various major parts of the motor.
@Coin, no, it's the 1990 Pulsar Q, front wheel drive, 4 wheel disc brakes, multipoint fuel injection, pretty advanced for a small car of it's time.
I am wondering if the difference in size between the had recesses and the cylinder bores will be a problem, but I don't think it will.
As a matter of fact, that is one of of about 3 differences in the motors. The cylinder bores are different by 4mm.
Mick, why do you insist on non-Japanese motors?
Also, oops. Was Coin talking to you and not to me?
(03-31-2013, 03:11 PM)Mickk Wrote: The Pulsar Q comes in two engine sizes, the 1.8 which is the motor that spat out and has MPFI as standard and a 1.6, which comes with TBI as standard.
We have been told that the MPFI system from the 1.8 will essentially just 'bolt on' as they say, but I personally have my doubts.
According to the workshop manual, the only real difference between the two motors is the size of the cylinder bore, the 1.8 having a bore just over 4 mm bigger than the 1.6.
I have done that kind of operation before. I have a 1985 Cadillac that came stock with a 4.1L TBI v8, and I installed a 4.9L PFI block with a 4.5L TBI intake. I had to use TBI injectors from a chevy 305 (5.0L) to get the air-fuel ratios close enough for it to run and it still idles rich at cold start.
You'll need to match the PFI injectors to the engine displacement. You said elsewhere that the 1.6 was available in PFI, so that is where you should start.
Basically, modern engines "work" by having the computer monitor the air that is flowing through it, and then applying correct fuel to match by timing the duration of the injector spray. You need to match the injector to the displacement for the defaults to work.
If people say the intake bolts up, I'd believe them. Watch out for brackets though, usually a lot of changes there for small things as years go by, I would imagine this is especially true with turbo.