Posting partially as a vent, partially out of excitement, and partially out of curiosity
First off, feel free to post your car, truck, motorcycle, and or engine builds ^^ Discussion is open too
That being said, I recently acquired a 1982 S10 pickup truck. After realizing the 2.8L in it was shot and realizing the 350 in my garage was abandoned by my brother, I told my dad "Why cant I shoehorn that 350 in there?"
That was the beginning of my headaches. To start, the motor was out of sync down to the timing chain. I figured "ok, just adjust it proper... but lets check the cam/lifters." Turns out the rockers were so tight that every rod was bent (several bent so much they barely came out)
The lifters were shot and the cam almost worn past acceptable specs. So, a cam was tacked to my shoppin list.
Then the heads came next. I was given a set of 1988 camaro heads, never used. turns out though they require a different intake. lets just say I wasnt happy. But even more so, I discovered the head gasket was leaking and steaming one of my cylinders. turns out, he didnt torque the head bolts in sequence or even to the correct torque.
So, here I am cleaning a silicone covered intake side, and fouled out to hell and back combustion chambers.
That being said, the motor is from a 77 c10. its getting a comp cams 262H grind cam shaft, stock ported heads, roller tip rocker arms, along with a edelbrock performer intake. Gonna use a borg warner coil in a stock HEI dizzy, using borg warner 8mm wires. plugs are NGK UR4 Vpower plugs. All gaskets are fel pro. Carb is a Quadrajet 750cfm til I can afford a holley. We expect it to generate 290-310 horsepower at flywheel.
So, if you made it this far, whats y'all opinions on this build and application? Please dont tell me to stick the biggest cam or carb for 2 reasons; 1 its going in a s10 with a 7.5 diff. So I'll be lucky if I dont blow the rear end as is. and 2, it aint for racing. its a everyday truck that I can have fun with.
I know it's obviously for fun, but ... an '82 S10?
Does the engine fit properly into the tranny from the S10, or did you have to drill something out? I mean - you're talking about two different engines, which means that while you may get 300 horse at the flywheel, I'd be checking gear ratios in the transmission. Heck, for that matter, I'd be checking bolt holes - just to make sure the engine actually fits ONTO the transmission.
EDIT: I think you might like this engine.
0 - 60 in two seconds...
(11-21-2013, 12:53 PM)Jihadjoe Wrote: Oh god... The end of days... Agmen agreed with me.
check the tranny - can you drag the tranny that went with that engine into the new shell? - cos ive stuck larger engines onto smaller boxes and booom! there goes the box.
next up, check the engine mounts - can they take the now much higher torque? you DONT want to twist your front subframe, cos you'll never get that puppy straight again and the tracking and steering will go all curly.
best drag over the exhaust manifold too - the bigger engine will produce a higher pressure. the tail pipe might produce too much back pressure, so you might need to swop out the silencers as well.
lastly, check the suspension - that bigger block is heavier, and so you might be riding nose heavy, and affect the steering.
be a good idea to check the brakes to see if they can handle the higher bhp that the block will produce.
you sure it wouldnt be easier to repair the old engine?
(12-12-2013, 06:08 AM)Agmen of Eladesor Wrote: I know it's obviously for fun, but ... an '82 S10?
Does the engine fit properly into the tranny from the S10, or did you have to drill something out? I mean - you're talking about two different engines, which means that while you may get 300 horse at the flywheel, I'd be checking gear ratios in the transmission. Heck, for that matter, I'd be checking bolt holes - just to make sure the engine actually fits ONTO the transmission.
the stock transmission is a MT25 manual, which if I remember correctly is the same tranny used in most full sized cars of the day (minus the different bellhousing size)
But thats irrelevant since I'm shoving a turbo 350 in there. Tranny mounts all line up, which is epic.
Forgot to mention that I cant drive a stick to save my life, so I gotta upgrade the tranny =P
Also, not to be rude, but a cool engine for me would be a chevy or buick V8 big block with a three by duece setup. if I had 3 grand, I'd totally be doing it on my engine
(12-12-2013, 10:59 AM)Coin Wrote: check the tranny - can you drag the tranny that went with that engine into the new shell? - cos ive stuck larger engines onto smaller boxes and booom! there goes the box.
next up, check the engine mounts - can they take the now much higher torque? you DONT want to twist your front subframe, cos you'll never get that puppy straight again and the tracking and steering will go all curly.
best drag over the exhaust manifold too - the bigger engine will produce a higher pressure. the tail pipe might produce too much back pressure, so you might need to swop out the silencers as well.
lastly, check the suspension - that bigger block is heavier, and so you might be riding nose heavy, and affect the steering.
be a good idea to check the brakes to see if they can handle the higher bhp that the block will produce.
you sure it wouldnt be easier to repair the old engine?
Check the above post pertaining to the transmission. My only concern is the small differential, but if I tke it easy on it and dont try anything crazy I should be ok. Worst case if I do blow it, I can either rip the rear end from a next gen s10 with a 4.3 in it (which would be more than strong enough) or rip a 8.8 from a ranger.
As far as the mounts go, the kit utilizes the same frame mounts as the 2.8, but requires special engine mounts which basically shove the motor forward by 2-3 inches. Considering its been done for the last 20 or so years, I dont think I have to worry about twisting or damaging anything ^^ Not shoving a race motor in there.
Exhaust needs a complete reworking (again, kit for it) and requires shorty headers to clear the steering shaft. Only thing is that the fuel line needs to be re routed, but since I have ot reroute it anyways to make it line up with my fuel pump, thats no biggie.
the coils have already been replaced by the old owner to support a 383 stroker, so I have no concern with the suspension at this time. I will address it if its a issue once the motor is in.
The purpose of this is to shove a 350 in a S10 to make a fun little toy. I have a 2012 civic and a 04 silverado if I need a utility or sporty car. Now I want a father son project I can work on with my dad so we can have a little fun, and this S10 was the perfect project. Everything except the engine is in pristine condition for a truck thats 31 years old.
oh and the motor *could* be redone if I wanted to put about 100$ into it. But heres the catch; the original motor blew up so they put one from a 91 in there, swapped the intake so it could be carbureted. so none of the pulleys align properly, the alternator barely clears the valve cover and offers little to no adjustment to tighten the belt, and thats just the surface of the problems I've seen so far.
So CAN I fix it? Most likely. Is it WORTH it? not at all.
My major concern isnt if it will work or not, that I know it'll be jsut fine. I'm concerned moreso about the cooling aspect. I might not be able to make a flex fan clear the radiator, which means I have to move to electric fans. But as if thats not bad enough, I need a new radiator as is.
Posts: 8,832
Threads: 747
Joined: Aug 2008
Staff roles: Moderator
Go with something gas turbine, the same thing a lot of aircraft use and yes, people do it. You could mount a small turbo shaft engine in that little truck and have an equal amount of fun.
If I had the time, I'd do it because I could do it!
Hey, if you're worried about cooling, do what they do in that engine picture I posted.
The radiator is nowhere NEAR the engine. It's actually located in the REAR of the car, with big side ducts to get airflow into it. You have to run the coolant a little further, but hey, it works.
That's the engine from the Subaru WRX Rally Team race car, by the way. If I remember right, it's 580 horse from the 2.5L engine.
(11-21-2013, 12:53 PM)Jihadjoe Wrote: Oh god... The end of days... Agmen agreed with me.
(12-13-2013, 02:20 AM)yurineova Wrote: welp we magnafluxed the heads. theye riddled to hell and back with cracks, so the heads are shot.
Not very happy rightn ow and now my build is indefinitely suspended.
82 GM? Isn't that carb? Simplest thing is junkyard swap. Coolest thing would be PFI upgrade (I hate carb)
Sorry you're having trouble with it, that's the way it goes with this hobby. I have only done a couple of engine swaps and one of them is incomplete because the clutch packs in the trans gave out immediately after the hp upgrade, so I gotta rebuild that too.
(12-13-2013, 02:35 AM)Doc Holliday Wrote: Go with something gas turbine, the same thing a lot of aircraft use and yes, people do it. You could mount a small turbo shaft engine in that little truck and have an equal amount of fun.
If I had the time, I'd do it because I could do it!
I would put a big arse turbine in the front cu it would give the truck a mean look, but money is tight. the Block and Rotating assembly is within spec and perfectly fine, so the cheapest option is some heads and back to my original build. Its just a extra 500+$ I didnt want to spend is all.
(12-13-2013, 05:43 AM)Agmen of Eladesor Wrote: Hey, if you're worried about cooling, do what they do in that engine picture I posted.
The radiator is nowhere NEAR the engine. It's actually located in the REAR of the car, with big side ducts to get airflow into it. You have to run the coolant a little further, but hey, it works.
That's the engine from the Subaru WRX Rally Team race car, by the way. If I remember right, it's 580 horse from the 2.5L engine.
The idea with this truck build is the stealth factor. I'm putting a quiet exhaust, and rerouting everything to contain everything in the engine bay.
That being said, I should have no issues fitting a 3 row vette radiator if I chop the core support, which is the current plan. using a 1" flex fan spacer and a short shaft water pump, everything should clear, I just need to ensure theres enough airflow across the radiator as it sits.
(12-13-2013, 05:53 AM)Ursus Wrote:
(12-13-2013, 02:20 AM)yurineova Wrote: welp we magnafluxed the heads. theye riddled to hell and back with cracks, so the heads are shot.
Not very happy rightn ow and now my build is indefinitely suspended.
82 GM? Isn't that carb? Simplest thing is junkyard swap. Coolest thing would be PFI upgrade (I hate carb)
Sorry you're having trouble with it, that's the way it goes with this hobby. I have only done a couple of engine swaps and one of them is incomplete because the clutch packs in the trans gave out immediately after the hp upgrade, so I gotta rebuild that too.
the motor is a 77 350 small block chevy. And yes, I'm puttign a 750 cfm quadrajet on it til I can afford a holley.
I'm avoiding junkyard heads because I'll probably run into the same issues with the valve train being worn out. I'll jsut ave for new heads and be done.
Also, it proven on the track that carbs put out more power they just burn gas. that truck will pass anything except a gas station. I'll rev it and it will sound badass and all, but then I'll go "outta gas, mind givin me a push?"
(12-13-2013, 09:07 AM)Coin Wrote: piston heads or cylinder heads?
Cylinder heads of course. Rotating assembly is fine.